Pagosa Springs Colorado
Pagosa Rocks: A rookie gets high on rock climbing

by Jim Latham

Whenever I'm rock climbing, I wish I was built like my friend Jesse. He's tall and lanky, with long, spidery limbs well-suited for efficiently moving a human being up a rock wall. Jesse’s wife Kris, who is the opposite of tall, casts doubt on my tall-is-good theory by moving up the rock like a combination water bug and mountain goat--complete with small feet. Keeping with the animal comparisons, I climb like a harbor seal on the beach: lots of motion and noise, but little forward progress.

I couldn’t have picked a better place for my introduction to rock climbing in Pagosa Country. Penitente Canyon is a world-renowned rock-climbing destination an hour and forty-five minutes from Pagosa Springs, just outside of Del Norte. With some other friends, we'd driven out the day before and camped under the nearly fully moon, a distant pack of coyotes singing us to sleep. After a leisurely breakfast, we headed into the canyon, which takes it name from a small group of Catholic brothers, Los Hermanos Penitente--the Penitent Brothers, who retreated to the canyons and foothills of the San Juan and Sangre de Cristo mountains to worship and live simply.

Wild rose bushes and other sweet-smelling plants covered the canyon floor and reached over my head, giving the well-worn footpath a cozy feel. Ponderosa and aspen rose higher still; juniper and pinon dotted the tops of the canyon walls, their variations on the color green contrasting with the volcanic rock, which was a mottled combination of pinkish gray and dark red with bursts of lichen the colors of mint toothpaste, rusty nails, charcoal, and mustard. Wind ruffled the trees, and occasional climber chatter was muffled for the most part by the rose bushes.

With some coaching from Jesse and Kris--and the second chances provided by the rope that kept me from crashing to the ground each time I slipped off the face—I made it up both faces we attempted that day, learning, among other things, to climb with my legs, which is much more efficient. Like a lot of rookie climbers--especially guys—I tried at first to pull myself up the wall. Another lesson was that sometimes you have to be creative. At one point I jammed my knee in the crack I was climbing and turned it into an effective, if nonstandard hold. That hints at a greater insight that Jesse shared with me later--an important part of climbing is finding out what sorts of things will work for you given your body proportions and attributes and using them as efficiently as possible.

More recently, Jesse and Kris and I met to go bouldering along the Piedra River, just outside of town. Bouldering is similar to rock climbing, but instead of attempting to reach the top of a rock wall, you stay closer to the ground. This provides the opportunity to work on technique and stamina knowing that a fall will be only a matter of a few inches.

Like Penitente Canyon, the Piedra River is no slouch for scenery--huge slabs of rock jut out into the water, which undercuts dramatic banks. Pines provide agreeable afternoon shade and a convenient place to set hats and backpacks—just watch out for the poison ivy. On top of all this, the name is appropriate for rock climbing--"piedra" is Spanish for "rock."

Depending on the rock and your goals, bouldering provides either a relaxing good time or an incredibly strenuous workout. We picked a section of wall suited to traversing--moving horizontally along the rock--and took turns. The stretch was plenty wide, meaning we were able to really work those small forearm muscles that you discover during--and the day after--climbing. After a few hours, we hiked back to the cars, stretching our forearms as we went. As we approached town, I grinned with the realization that I'd caught the bug. In addition to providing a great workout and interesting challenge that is both mental and physical, climbing gets a person outside and into pretty spots. In other words, it's my kind of sport.

Wanting to learn more about local climbing spots, I stopped in at Switchback Mountain Gear and Apparel, the center of the local climbing network, in downtown Pagosa Springs. Steve Cundy was working the desk that day and was kind enough to answer my questions. The Piedra, where I'd been bouldering, is the main local climbing area, with routes of varying difficulty. Another local climbing spot is V-rock, which is quite challenging. According to Steve, it is "serious climbing. Not friendly like Piedra." In fact, the only documented climbing fatality in Archuleta County took place at V-rock, when a climber died in a rappelling accident. There are also several well-known bouldering areas located near West Fork Road.

In short, there is plenty in the area to get a person started. But be forewarned--climbing can be addictive. I, for one, am hooked.

IF YOU GO:

Rock climbing is a safe sport, provided you know what you are doing. If, like me, you don't, go with somebody who does. As with many outdoor pursuits, proper gear and instruction is essential to ensuring safety and enjoyment. It is often necessary to hike from the place you park to the place you climb, so plan accordingly.

In Pagosa, the best way to enter the world of rock climbing is to go to Switchback. In addition to a full line of outdoor gear, Switchback stocks rock climbing essentials for novices and experienced climbers, including ropes, harnesses, shoes, books on technique, and a guidebook describing local climbing locales. More importantly, you'll be able to make contact with people who will be able to show you the ropes--literally--making sure that your introduction to climbing is both safe and fun. To top it all off, climbers get discounts on gear.

Switchback Mountain Gear and Apparel
456 Pagosa Street
Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
(970) 264-2225
Monday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sunday 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

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